Living in Rome means the Amalfi Coast has been sitting on my doorstep for years, and my mother and I finally stopped putting it off.
We spent four days there, rented a car against everyone’s advice, and came back with strong opinions, a shortlist of places worth your time, and real numbers for what everything costs.
This guide covers where we stayed, what we ate, how we got around, and the mistakes we made so you can skip them.
Why We Rented a Car in Naples
Every guide we read said the same thing: don’t drive on the Amalfi Coast. We rented a car in Naples anyway. I’ve driven all over Italy since we moved here, and I wanted to see for myself if the warnings actually hold up.
I’ll give you the full verdict at the end of this post, but here’s the short version: we’d do it again, with two conditions. More on those later.
The drive from Naples to Ravello took about an hour. It climbs and winds along some really scenic roads, and then the sea shows up below you and you get why people make this trip. Ravello is where we based ourselves, and it turned out to be a great choice.
Ravello: Our Base on the Coast
We chose Ravello because it sits at the top of the mountains, away from the crowds that pack the waterfront towns, and it turned out to be the best decision of the trip.
It’s quieter and more romantic than anywhere else we visited: flower-lined streets, medieval stonework, ceramic shops, small restaurants, and lemon groves tucked between buildings.
One warning: nothing here is convenient. The nearest parking lot is a 10-minute walk from the town center, so we dragged our bags to the hotel on foot.
The hotel itself was excellent though. Spacious room, comfortable bed, a proper work desk, electric kettle, and a location right in the center.
Our first official act was gelato. I went for tiramisu, my mother chose Sicilian pistachio, and both were absurdly creamy. At 5 euros each, worth every cent.
Villa Cimbrone and the Terrace of Infinity
Villa Cimbrone is the highlight of Ravello and one of the most beautiful gardens in Italy. The estate belonged to a noble Italian family in the 11th century, sat abandoned for ages, and was bought in the early 1900s by an Englishman who restored the grounds into what you walk through today.
The centerpiece is the Terrace of Infinity, a viewpoint lined with marble busts hanging over one of the most spectacular panoramas on the coast. Walking those gardens with the scent of the flowerbeds around us felt like stepping into a period film. Entry is 10 euros per person and I’d pay it again without hesitation.
On the same stroll you pass Villa Rufolo and the Duomo di Ravello, plus enough boutiques and ceramic shops to do real damage to your budget. We speak from experience.
Dinner at Mimì Pizzeria e Cucina
We walked past Mimì earlier in the day, caught the smell coming from the kitchen, and reserved a table on the spot.
I ordered spaghetti alla puttanesca and my mother had the scialatielli ai frutti di mare, a coastal classic our waiter insisted on.
Both were cooked exactly right, the seafood tasting like it came off a boat that morning. We closed with a classic tiramisu and rolled back to the hotel happy.
Hiking the Sentiero degli Dei
Day two started on the Path of the Gods, the trail connecting Bomerano to Positano. The full route takes around 4 hours, so bring water, a hat, and sunscreen. The terrain climbs steadily, which makes sense once you accept that the entire coast is one long cliff.
Here’s where the car worked against us.
We parked in Bomerano, and hiking the full trail to Positano would have meant a 2-hour bus journey back on schedules you cannot trust. So we hiked to the main viewpoints and turned around, which I’d still call a win.
We arrived along with the clouds, and I spent the first stretch with my fingers crossed. The mist rolling over the ridges made everything look dramatic, and when the sky opened, the payoff was enormous: the sea glittering below, boat traffic weaving across the water, beach clubs in the distance, and eventually a view stretching all the way to Positano.
Looking at those houses built straight into the rock, I kept asking myself the same question: was there truly no easier place to build?
The classic way to do this trail without a car is to ferry to Amalfi, bus to Bomerano, hike to Positano, and ferry back to your hotel.
The weak link is the bus, because schedules here are more of a suggestion than a promise. I’ve written a full post on getting around the coast if you want the complete breakdown.
Post-hike reward: gelato, pistachio and lemon. A tradition was forming.
Minori and the Delizia al Limone
If you’ve got a car, Minori is an easy little detour, and I’d say make it for one thing: the delizia al limone. This dessert is the town’s specialty, so this is the place to try it.
We showed up hungry, so first we grabbed a pizza (we basically got pulled in off the street by the smell). Then we went to find the dessert and see if the trip was worth it.
Fair warning when you walk into the pastry shop: the hard part is choosing. The counter is packed with options, way too many to pick just one, so don’t feel bad about ordering a couple. Here’s what I’d point you to.
Get the delizia al limone. It’s the one to beat. As soon as you cut into it, it starts to fall apart, and you can see how creamy it is inside. It’s three layers: a glaze on top that actually tastes like something, a dome of soft sponge cake underneath (so light you almost don’t notice it), and a smooth lemon filling in the middle, basically a mousse.
That filling is the whole point. It’s sweet, but the lemon keeps it sharp enough that it never feels heavy. If you only try one dessert on the Amalfi Coast, I’d make it this.
If you want a second, go for the pear and ricotta tart. Light crust, soft pieces of pear in syrup, sweet but not over the top. My mom stuck with the delizia, but this tart was actually my favorite of the two. So that’s my tip: order both and pick your own winner. It’s a small stop, but for a dessert this good, it’s worth the drive.
Amalfi Town and Its Cathedral
Amalfi carries real history. Between the 9th and 10th centuries this small town was one of the great maritime powers of the region, and you still feel that weight in its center. To escape the crowds for a moment, we sat at a café for a proper espresso.
My mother, who takes her coffee seriously after decades of Spanish cafés, gave it full marks: less bitter than expected, with a thick crema that holds on the surface instead of vanishing.
In the Piazza del Duomo stands the Cathedral of Saint Andrew, whose remains are said to rest in the crypt below. You enter through the Chiostro del Paradiso, a quiet courtyard where Eastern and Western influences blend in the arches, a fusion that runs through the entire building.
Inside, golden mosaics and baroque detail contrast with the sober facade, and the underground crypt is the most striking moment of the visit.
The Boat Tour: Best Money We Spent
Amalfi is one of the main ports on the coast, with boats leaving for everywhere, including Capri. We debated Capri and decided against it with only four days. There’s more than enough on the mainland. With five days or more, go.
Instead we took a boat tour along the coast for 36 euros per person, and it was the best value of the entire trip.
You see the full coastline from the water, there’s a swimming stop, and the Mediterranean shows off shades of blue no photo captures honestly. From out there, you finally understand what all the fuss is about.
Then the bill for reality arrived: 34 euros for just over 4 hours of parking in Amalfi. Take a breath, don’t do the math too carefully, and move on with your day. That’s what we did.
Marina di Praia and the Bar Inside a Cave
Marina di Praia was our last stop of the day, and honestly one of the prettiest little beaches we saw. After what we’d just paid for parking, we really wanted that swim.
One thing to know: there’s no sand. It’s a small cove with grey pebbles, tucked between two cliffs. Most of it is covered in the paid chairs and umbrellas from the beach clubs, but there’s a free spot in the corner where you can put down a towel and jump in. It gets full fast though, so go early.
Right next to the beach there’s a place called Il Pirata. It’s a beach club, and the cool part is the bar is inside an actual cave.
We were really hungry after the boat, so we stopped to eat.
I got a green salad with salmon, almonds and orange for 12€, and my mom got a salmon sandwich for 15€. Not cheap, but for that view, we didn’t mind at all.
Positano: Come Early, Leave Early
Our Positano day started with a real Amalfi Coast lesson. We took the bus to save money, waited a full hour, then watched it drive right past us because we didn’t have a ticket bought ahead of time. Nothing tells you this. There’s no sign, no warning, nothing.
So here’s my tip: ask a local, or find a tourist information point and get the real answer, because Google Maps has no idea how public transport works around here. Door to door, it took us 3 hours to get there.
But Positano delivered once we arrived. We stood at Spiaggia Grande just taking it in, that wall of colorful houses stacked all the way up the hillside. Then we wandered into the maze of little streets, full of linen clothes, handmade sandals and hand-painted ceramics. Nice just to get lost in for a bit.
Keep climbing and you’ll hit Via Cristoforo Colombo, a street lined with cafés and restaurants looking out over the town and the sea. The famous stop here is Franco’s Bar, great for brunch or a drink.
We had the torta salata and the saltimbocca, both really good. If you want something easier on the wallet, Dolce e Salato is on the same street, with small tables along the edge and the same view. Order the lemon sorbet that comes served inside a whole Sicilian lemon. It’s creamy, sharp, and exactly what you want in that heat.
The beach works like everywhere else on the coast: paid loungers, plus a free area that’s actually pretty generous, with space to lay down a towel.
My honest take on Positano? It’s expensive, hot and packed. So here’s what I’d do: come early, give it about two hours, then head to a beach club somewhere else for the rest of the day. This region has too much going for it to spend a whole afternoon squeezed shoulder to shoulder in those lanes. And leaving early saves you a small fortune on parking, which is no joke here.
Where to Stay on the Amalfi Coast
Ravello was our favorite town, and I’d base myself there again tomorrow. The honest caveat: it’s complicated without a car, because public transport connections from up there are thin. Driving, it was easy. If you want a cheaper base with better transport links, look at Salerno or Sorrento instead.
Car or Bus: The Final Verdict
After four days of driving, here’s the honest ledger.
The cons: chaos. The roads are extremely narrow, full-size buses squeeze past with centimeters to spare, pedestrians appear from nowhere, and you need to watch for ZTL restricted-traffic zones. Parking hurts too: 40 euros in a single day at the peak.
The pros: freedom. We picked up the car in Naples and never once stood at a bus stop hoping. You go where you want, when you want, stop at a viewpoint or a market on a whim, and rearrange your itinerary without consulting a timetable. Some connections that take 30 minutes by car require nearly 2 hours and a transfer by bus. And some days you park free, like our hiking day, which softens the damage.
The car wins, with two conditions: rent the smallest one they’ll give you, because you need to thread those streets, and take full insurance coverage. Here, “you never know” means something.
Quick Price Summary
Gelato: around 5 euros. Villa Cimbrone: 10 euros per person. Boat tour: 36 euros per person. Beach club lunch: 12 to 15 euros per dish. Pizza with a view near Ravello: around 10 euros per pizza, 5 euros for a generous glass of wine. Parking: the villain of the trip, up to 34 euros for 4 hours in Amalfi.
